Stop Blogging and Cook

Early tomato ketchups were not sweetened per se (they contained
some sweet spices, but not sugar or other sweeteners).
When sugar started to be added to ketchup (in the mid-1800s),
only a small quantity was used at first.  This resulted in fermentation,
which meant sour-tasting ketchup.  When more sugar was added
to sweeten the sour taste, a greater quantity of vinegar was added
to keep the sweetness in check.  The larger amount of vinegar resulted in a
chemical reaction that created “invert” sugars . . .
which made the ketchup sweeter still. ~History Small Pond

TODAY’S PREPARATION

KETCHUP, YOU SAY?
Dr Oz on Oprah yesterday, discussing early onset diabetes, and the talk went to the staggering amount of sugar on the grocer’s shelf.  Sugar is in everything:  usually the second ingredient listed in breakfast cereal marketed to children, high-fructose corn syrup in most packaged food products, even in table salt (dextrose), and some toothpaste.

The talk went on to discuss the many aspects of sugar, including that vinegar is the sugar antidote.  I knew that if you put too much sugar in some dishes, you can very often diminish the sweetness by adding vinegar.  Or, if you put too much vinegar in something, you can lessen the acidic flavor by adding some sugar.  But I didn’t know that vinegar actually counteracts the negative effect that sugar has on the body, chemically speaking.

They mentioned ketchup as an example of out-of-control sugar consumption.  Ketchup has lots of sugar, some brands have both high-fructose corn syrup and corn syrup.  And, it seemed ironically, vinegar.  Until I read the History of Ketchup online.

It got me thinking.  If you leave out the vinegar, you’ll need less sugar.  How hard could it be to make ketchup?  Into the kitchen, armed with The Up-With-Wholesome, Down-With-Store-Bought Book of Recipes and Household Formulas .  Well, their recipe calls for two cups of sugar  and ten pounds of fresh tomatoes, so I knew I wasn’t up for that.  But it was a place to start.  I began with a can of tomato puree.  I liked the way they listed the ingredients:  Fresh Red Ripe Tomatoes.  No sugar, no salt, no shitake.

Hmmm, let’s see. Caramelizing onions is a way of adding sugar without adding sugar; ditto with sweet red pepper,  and a little honey.  Some celery, garlic and spices.  No vinegar, no sugar, no problem.  I’ve used a 28oz can of puree because that was what I had in the pantry.  It cooked down to a little more than sixteen ounces.  I wanted to make it worth my while as long as I was making it, but it can easily be cut it in half.  Or make the entire batch and give half of it away to someone you love.  (Valentine’s Day is coming.  What better way to say you care than to give someone hand-made ketchup?)  Use it to make the cocktail sauce for the Shrimp preparation.  Oysters, anyone?  Mix ketchup with wasabi (to taste) and you have an instant appetizer.

The color is deeply red, not at all like that seen preserved on the grocery shelf, but deepened with the addition of ground spices.  Using whole spices will prevent some of that, but even the paprika will darken that bright red color.  But all of the notes are present that you expect in a flavorful ketchup.  You can add some wine vinegar if you want more of a kick, just add it at the end of the cooking and taste after adding a little at a time.  A little vinegar goes a long way.  Or spike it with hot sauce or cayenne pepper for an interesting jolt.

How many people are up for making their own ketchup?  If you’re American and have children, your family probably consumes a fair amount of the popular condiment, so it may be worth your while to consider whipping up some, at least to give it a try.  One hindrance is probably that most recipes begin with fresh tomatoes.  You have to blanch them to remove the skins, cook them down, then strain to remove the seeds which translates into a lot of time and effort.  Most people won’t go there.  Even I won’t go there!

Let the supermarket work for you , beginning with puree and you have the best of both worlds.  You can simmer the pot on the stove while something else is cooking for dinner, or make if for a snow day activity.  Bring the kids into the act!   I’m going to freeze it and see how that works.  With no preservatives, it won’t keep forever in the refrigerator.  Freezing might change the texture or thin it out, and it may have to be simmered again to bring it up to snuff.  Stay tuned.

If you’re concerned about balancing what you eat, making your own anything is a great way to take control of your sugar and salt intake.  Always a good idea.