SPRING LAMB
PART OF EASTER SUNDAY DINNER MENU
When from a long distant past nothing subsists after the things are broken and scattered, the smell and taste of things remain. ~ Marcel Proust (1871-1922)
Did you ever think, three months ago, that you would be ready to roast a leg of lamb? That is today’s preparation, and it’s easier than you think. I know you’ve heard this before, but have I ever lied to you? You will do fine with a little advanced planning. Shop prior to the weekend so you’re sure to have everything you need. Cook in a kitchen of calm and cool and make people think you’ve been doing this for years.
THE CUT
Having a butcher who can supply a nice leg of lamb is key. New Zealand lamb is usually grass-fed and much more mildly flavorful than American lamb, which tends towards a more game-y flavor. Using red wine in the gravy will cut the gaminess, but there is no substitute for a good cut of meat to begin with. An entire leg of lamb is not only too large for most home meals, it will be difficult to find a roasting pan large enough to contain it.
A leg is usually cut into two halves: the shank and the sirloin. The shank half is the smallest way to a leg of lamb (three to four pounds) and tends to be the leanest. If you’re cooking for one or two, this is the best way to go, unless you want lots of leftovers.
A short leg, or three-quarters, will give you the shank and half of the sirloin. This is the next largest way to a roast lamb. The sirloin half is more tender, but also has more bone. Sirloin roasts are usually cooked bonless; your butcher can bone it for you, but make sure to take the bone with you for a lovely soup.
ROASTING TIME
Rub the leg with herbs and, if desired, insert slices of garlic into the meat. Garlic also helps to cut the gaminess of American lamb. A meat thermometer will most accurately tell you when your roast has been cooked enough for your particular tastes. Insert a meat thermometer if you have the kind that is oven-proof. Place on a roasting rack to allow air circulation around the roast and to allow the juices to drip into the pan.
Use a large onion or two medium onions, in large polar slices. As the browning of the onion in the pan juices is what forms the foundation for the gravy, I’d advocate for more onions rather than less. After the onions have browned to quite a dark color, you can arrest the browning by adding some filtered water or beef or vegetable stock to the roasting pan. Don’t add too much, just enough to cover the bottom.
Cooking time will vary, depending upon size of leg. Because it is wide at one end and narrow at the other, the smaller end will cook faster. This allows for a variety of doneness, so if you like it rare and your mother likes it medium-rare, you both should be happy. No one should eat lamb well done because cooking it that much will rob it of moisture and flavor.
Remove to a platter and let roast rest for fifteen minutes. It will continue cooking a little, and resting will allow the juices to recede back into the meat so they stay there while carving. It will also give you time to make the gravy and get the rest of the dinner on the table.
Don’t shy away from making gravy. It’s no more difficult than making gravy for chicken, but there is one difference: lamb will usually render a little more fat than a chicken. This can be skimmed off the top before reducing the pan juices, and the rest will be absorbed by the thickening agent in the gravy-making process. Remember that fat is what flavors the meat and as long as your leg is lean, it shouldn’t be too much.
Don’t forget the beef or vegetable stock that you have in the freezer. This is ideal for making gravy, adding more flavor than water. You could use boullion, but this adds a lot of salt to the finished product. If the dark brown of the onions bothers you, you can strain it through a sieve before serving, pressing down on the onions to extract all of the juices and flavor.
Carve off a large slice parallel to the bone. Place on its side and slice across the grain at least a quarter of an inch thick. Save the bone for the soup pot.
Easter Sunday roast goes with any sort of potato you like: roasted whole red-skinned potatoes are beautiful alongside roast lamb, as are mashed sweet potatoes. A baked potato is a nice change, with butter, chopped green onions and a bit of Greek yogurt.
